Etro Inventive Director Marco De Vincenzo Discusses Connections Between Music & Model
For the reason that rise of streaming, music has been “liquid” as a result of it’s pervasive, universally accessible and shortly consumed. However maybe it has at all times been. Few different inventive varieties have the identical means to work together in such a harmonious and, certainly, fluid method with different artistic disciplines, enhancing their expression.
Whereas for some individuals music is a nice soundtrack, for others it’s far more. It’s the very supply of their creativity. The latter is actually the case of Marco De Vincenzo, 45 years outdated, of Sicilian origin, and since final 12 months artistic director of one of many nice Italian style manufacturers, Etro.
For De Vincenzo, inspiration begins and is then supported by a musical suggestion. Music is the elemental ingredient of the character of a set, in addition to the success of a style present.
With the newest Milan Vogue Week, the artistic director went even additional, having a younger rising band, Santamarea (additionally Sicilian), create a tune for the Etro runway. “Acqua Bagnami” offered the proper sonic extension to the strains and colours of Etro’s “Nowhere” assortment, introduced on Sept. 20 in Milan.
After the hassle of Vogue Week, Billboard Italy reached out to De Vincenzo to speak in regards to the tight connection between music and magnificence that defines his work.
You lately curated Spotify’s “Runway” playlist. What sort of music evokes your artistic work?
I found many songs that make up my playlists on the radio. As quickly as I hear one thing I like, I put it aside. In any other case, I’ll depend on Spotify’s solutions, doing a type of scouting. My style could possibly be outlined as “indie”, however I’ve playlists of varied genres. There isn’t any components. I’m a “headphones” individual: I like listening to music to lose contact with the encircling world. I choose the two-way relationship with music.
You stated, “Music is greater than only a easy ingredient of the artistic course of: It’s the basis of all of it.” Might you clarify how?
Once I begin a set, I’m open to any chance. Music defines a mind-set and due to this fact leads me to make selections. Some collections have been unhappy or joyful due to the second I used to be going by and that the music supported. I’ve by no means made a set that didn’t have vital music behind it. Once I select the music for my style reveals I by no means wish to depend on DJs who don’t know my private style. I’ve at all times surrounded myself with pals who knew me, till the expertise with Santamarea, which was the primary time with an unreleased tune created particularly for the event.
As a model, Etro has at all times been impressed by the thought of journey, by influences from the world and different cultures. The newest assortment can be primarily based on the idea of travelling, however with creativeness. That is precisely what music stimulates, isn’t it?
That’s why it’s an ingredient. If there’s a excellent strategy to journey non-physically, it’s by listening to music. The gathering that we introduced in Milan known as “Nowhere” because of this, as a result of the creativeness takes you to locations you don’t know. The extra you let your self go to this unknown circulation, the extra attention-grabbing the result’s, since you haven’t put boundaries on it.
How vital is the musical part for the success of a present like a runway?
It’s crucial. When the music will not be excellent, the present will get penalized. Music manages to attach all elements. The rationale for the success of this assortment is partly as a result of environment that the music created. This hasn’t at all times occurred. Typically I regretted the alternatives I made as a result of they weren’t constant. These are errors I realized from. Because of reside streaming, runways are not a present for the elite and, if the music is flawed, you inform the flawed story. Pictures and music turn into one and have the identical significance.
Regardless of its cosmopolitan influences, Etro is likely one of the symbols of Italian model. Do you additionally wish to convey an concept of Italianness in your work? Out of your standpoint, how are Italian designers thought-about on the planet right this moment?
I at all times keep in mind what a good friend of mine used to inform me after my style reveals: “You’re so Italian,” in all probability that means our predilection for decorum, for maximalism. However that occurred ten or fifteen years in the past. At this time, Italianness has extra to do with craftsmanship, with the entire artisanal provide chain, which is a treasure to be protected. As for the style, it’s all very combined. I’m cautious to go searching rather a lot, to not make Italianness an extreme have a look at the previous. At this time, “Made in Italy” is nothing however a voice of worldwide style. Fortunately there are style weeks which might be flourishing world wide along with the 4 huge ones. They’ve native designers who produce overseas and have a robust standpoint. On condition that we carry loads of our tradition into our work, clearly in case you are Italian you’ve got an strategy that can’t resemble that of somebody who grew up in Camden City in London. I used to be born in Sicily and moved to Rome at 18. My expertise is entirelyItalian, however I at all times maintain an open door to look elsewhere. To reply the second query, I believe that right this moment Italian designers have some extra difficulties than foreigners as a result of Italy is a nation that depends closely on the previous. Younger Italian designers discover themselves a bit swallowed up by the large names. At this time there’s an entire scene of proficient younger designers who deserve more room. The Italian trade ought to divulge heart’s contents to new issues.
For the reason that rise of streaming, music has been “liquid” as a result of it’s pervasive, universally accessible and shortly consumed. However maybe it has at all times been. Few different inventive varieties have the identical means to work together in such a harmonious and, certainly, fluid method with different artistic disciplines, enhancing their…
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